Arima Onsen, Kin no Yu Onsen in Kobe, Japan

Thinking about how to spend my last days in Japan,
I decided to go to Kobe and take a hot spring bath.

Japan is all about hot springs, right?
But before heading on my trip, I needed to eat something hearty.

Kimchi Gyudon
For breakfast, I went to Matsuya and had Gyudon with kimchi.
I ordered the large size and enjoyed it heartily.
Gyudon always tastes good, no matter when you have it.

Osaka Umeda Station
If you want to get from Osaka to Kobe quickly and conveniently, taking a train from Umeda Station is the way to go.

Osaka Umeda Station – Kobe Sannomiya Station
Hankyu Kobe Line, Special Express: Takes 30 minutes
310 yen (Free with Kansai Thru Pass)

I could reach Kobe from Umeda in just 30 minutes by taking the Hankyu Kobe Line.
The Japanese trains felt like a combination of our regular trains and subways.
The entrances looked like subways, but the seats were arranged like train seats, facing forwards and backwards.

After arriving at Sannomiya Station in Kobe, I continued my journey by taking another train to Arima Onsen(Hot Spring).

I transferred trains a couple of times to reach Arima Onsen.
First, I changed from Sannomiya Station to the Seishin-Yamate Line.

From Sannomiya Station to Tanigami Station, it took about 10 minutes.
Then, from Tanigami Station, I took another train for about 20 minutes to reach Arima Onsen Station.

I transferred to the Yamate Line at Sannomiya Station in Kobe.
Just like when I traveled from Umeda to Kobe, the train system in Kobe was also quite efficient and easy to use.

Heading to Tanigami, the Yamate Line
I took the green train and headed to Tanigami.
While within Kobe city, the trains were underground, but once it left the city, traveled above ground, ascending into the mountains where the hot springs were located.

Leaving the city, I arrived at a quiet station.
In this tranquil residential area, you could see overpasses at some of the stations.
It felt like a serene rural train station.

Arima-sen train to Arima Onsen
I transferred trains for the third time at Tanigami.
This station was situated high up in the mountains, and it gave me a sense that Japan’s train system was well-developed, even in these high-altitude areas.
The Arima-sen train to Arima Onsen was a single-track railway with trains going back and forth, which made it feel like a charming mountain railroad journey.

Arima Onsen Station
Since it was my first time here and I was worried about finding my way, I thought it might be challenging.
However, I changed trains a few times without much difficulty.
Once I arrived at Arima Onsen Station, there were clear signs guiding me to my destination.

Arima Onsen, Hot Spring Village
There are several hot spring villages in the Kansai region, and Arima Onsen is one of the most famous.
While Kobe doesn’t have many tourist attractions, some people visit for a half-day trip, and I came early in the morning to enjoy the hot springs.

Village map
Arima Onsen is located on the northern slopes of Mount Rokko in Kobe.
Since there are many places for hot springs in Arima Onsen, you need to decide where to go.

Information sign with Korean and English
I decided to go to Kin no Yu Onsen.
It means “Gold Hot Spring,” and I liked the name.
Plus, it wasn’t too far from the station, so I could walk there.

Walking down the narrow streets
It was a bit uphill with a slight incline, but it wasn’t too difficult.
I strolled through the narrow streets to find the hot spring.

Kin no Yu Onsen at the intersection.
It was located at an intersection, making it easy to find.
It seemed to be a famous place because even local people were taking photos in front of the hot spring.

Locals enjoying the hot spring.
A local resident, who seemed to be casually dressed as if going to a neighborhood bathhouse, was using the hot spring.
I also wanted to experience the hot spring like a local.

Entrance to Kin no Yu Onsen.
There were Japanese-style curtains hanging at the entrance of Kin no Yu Onsen.
It really felt like I was in a Japanese hot spring.

Kin no Yu Onsen, with a sign saying it’s open.
I visited Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji in Kyoto yesterday, so I could understand the characters for gold (金) and silver (銀).

Entrance to the men’s bath (Bath #1)
Thankfully, I could read the characters for men(男) and women(女).
They also used different colors for the men’s and women’s baths, with the men’s bath using blue curtains and the women’s using red ones, making it easy to distinguish.

Entrance to the women’s bath (Bath #2)
Since it was the women’s bath, I couldn’t go in.

Inside, it felt like a typical Korean public bathhouse.
On the first floor, they sold bath supplies and various souvenirs.
There were no staff who could speak Korean, so I communicated with gestures to let them know I was alone and paid.

Arima Onsen Kin no Yu
Adults 650 yen, Children 340 yen, Infants 140 yen

Japanese hot springs and public bathhouses have some differences compared to those in Korea.
For one, they separate men and women, but they periodically switch the baths between men and women for harmony between yin and yang.
So, they marked the baths as “Men” and “Women,” but also numbered them as “Bath #1” and “Bath #2.”

Kin no Yu information sign.
Another interesting aspect was that, at least in the men’s bath, they provided a small towel when entered.
In Korea, they usually leave towels in the bath area for you to use as you like.
I wondered why they gave small towels here.
It turned out that it was to cover certain private areas when washing in the bath, but I didn’t know that at first.

Massage chairs in the relaxation area.
One more thing that surprised me was that, while I was in the bath, I could hear a woman’s voice coming from somewhere.
I didn’t hear it very well, but it was quite audible, and it seemed to be coming from nearby.

When I later learned that the ceiling of the bathhouse had openings, connecting it to the neighboring women’s bath, I understood where the voice was coming from.
It wasn’t loud conversation, but the occasional sound of a woman’s voice could be heard, making me, a naked man, feel a bit shy.

In addition to that,
In reality, as I was stepping out of the bath and washing myself,
a female attendant confidently entered the men’s bath, moving around and tidying up various areas while cleaning.

Unbelievable!
A female attendant in the men’s bath!
So, that’s why they gave us small towels at the entrance.
It was for covering up when needed.

I initially just wanted to enjoy hot springs and relieve fatigue in Japan, but experiencing Japan’s bathing culture in this way was unique and fascinating.

Drinking the hot spring water.
After finishing in the hot spring, I felt the cold winter breeze on my skin, making it feel taut and refreshed.

In front of Kin no Yu Onsen, Japanese tourists were dipping their hands into the hot spring water, taking commemorative photos.

Arima Onsen.
The hot spring village seemed like it would be bustling with tourists, but it was surprisingly peaceful and quiet.
I left the hot spring feeling refreshed and relaxed in body and mind.

Souvenir shops
After enjoying the hot spring, I descended the hill back to Arima Onsen Station.
It wasn’t a big town, but it was fun to explore the various items in the shops.

Another souvenir shop
The small shops had a quaint charm to them.
After the hot spring, I didn’t feel cold despite the winter wind.

Taxis were waiting in the city center as I walked downhill.
If I had been tired and exhausted, I might have taken a taxi, but I actually felt energized and wanted to take the Arima-sen train one more time.

Arima River
It was a small town, but it was well-organized.
The Arima River flowed through the town, and it seemed like a good place to dip your feet, but I didn’t go down there since I had just been in the hot spring.

Arima Onsen Station
I then took the train again from Arima Onsen to Kitano Ijinkan.

Train timetable
I like these analog schedules.

Dec. 15, 2009

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